claire mccardell surrounded models wearing designs, 2 may 1955. (time)
after second world war, emergence in paris of luxurious new popularised christian dior, emphasis on accessorising , femininity, in direct contrast relaxed, easy-wear american look. sally kirkland, fashion editor @ vogue , life, noted mccardell , others had been thinking along lines of longer , fuller skirts , fitted bodices, unlike dior s heavily stiffened , corseted designs, used bias-cut bodices , lightweight, easy-wear circle or pleated skirts reproduce same silhouette. unlike traditional made-to-measure french couture fashion, designed specific silhouettes, american sportswear designed accommodate variety of body shapes , enable freedom of movement. lifting of fabric rationing , restrictions following war, american designers able use unlimited fabric , development of permanent pleating meant pleated dresses , full skirts easy after. in addition this, american stores had begun recognise commercial value of separates, life reporting in 1949 separates made all-time-high of 30% of clothing sales in states fall.
in 1950s , 1960s, designers continued develop theme of affordable, practical , innovative sportswear, producing clothing focused on wearability rather fashion fads, including anne fogarty s coat-and-dress sets , dresses made removable waistcoats alter look. film costume designer bonnie cashin, started producing ready-to-wear clothing in 1949, considered 1 of influential american sportswear designers. known extremely practical layered ensembles inspired ethnographic garments , textiles such japanese kimono , happi, ikats, , south american poncho. designs incorporated leather bindings, pockets purse clasps, hooded jersey dresses , tops, , industrial zippers , fastenings. put brass clip resembling used on dog leashes, on long formal skirt securely hitched enable wearer run , down stairs, , ponchoes , hoods (which rolled down form elegant cowl-collars) designed driving on cool mornings. cashin became 1 of first american designers have international reputation. alongside cashin, rudi gernreich emerged in 1950s key name in sportswear design, first becoming known swimsuits, expanding geometrically cut, graphic clothes , knitwear kirkland described epitome of new california.
along many other designers, gernreich took advantage of development in mid-1950s of upgraded machine-knitting techniques produce work. double knitting (which developed in italy) enabled mass-production of easy-to-wear knitted suits, coats , dresses retained shape , became key american in 1960s , 70s. knitwear development involved varying lines of classic t-shirt extended dress-length versions, long or short sleeves, , other variations, including, 1960, sequined long evening version kasper arnold & fox. in 1960s, american sportswear depended on simple shapes, made in vivid colours , bold, geometric prints (such gernreich , donald brooks).
towards end of 1960s, many sportswear designers such anne klein , halston began enter business independently, rather relying on backing of manufacturers, or working in association firms , companies.
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