History Chicken Kiev

1 history

1.1 côtelette de volaille
1.2 pozharsky cutlet
1.3 individual attributions
1.4 novo-mikhailovsky cutlet
1.5 modern chicken kiev

history

the history of dish not documented, , various sources make controversial claims origin.

since 18th century russian chefs have adopted many techniques of french haute cuisine , combined them local culinary tradition. adoption furthered french chefs, such marie-antoine carême , urbain dubois, hired russian gentry. in particular use of quality meat cuts, such various cutlets, steaks, escalopes , suprêmes became widespread in 19th century, , number of original dishes involving such cuts developed in russia @ time.

côtelette de volaille

the french term de volaille means literally of poultry denotes exclusively chicken dishes in french cookbooks. name côtelette de volaille means chicken cutlet . despite original french name, russian recipe unknown in french cuisine, term côtelette de volaille refers chicken breasts in general , used synonymously chicken fillet or suprême. french term denotes minced chicken cutlet-shaped patty. general russian term chicken cutlets, kurinaya kotleta (куриная котлета), refers predominantly minced cutlets, whereas kotleta de-voliay applied exclusively stuffed chicken breast dish. latter name appears in pre- , post-revolutionary russian literature (in cookbooks in fiction) since beginning of 20th century , mentioned common restaurant dish.

the recipe in classical russian cookery textbook practical fundamentals of cookery art pelageya alexandrova-ignatieva (which had eleven editions between 1899–1916) includes complex stuffing similar quenelle (a mixture of minced meat, in case rest meat of chicken, , cream) butter added. points out cutlets de volaille made whole chicken fillets, game cutlets à la maréchale . recipe preceded similar 1 hazel grouse cutlets à la maréchale quenelle , truffle stuffing. russian cookbook published @ same time gives identical recipes côtelette de volaille , côtelette à la maréchale , notes difference between them former made of chicken while latter made of game, such hazel grouse, blackcock, etc.

the term à la maréchale ( marshal-style ) denotes in french cookery tender pieces of meat, such cutlets, escalopes, sweetbreads, or chicken breasts, treated à l anglaise ( english-style ), i.e. coated eggs , breadcrumbs, , sautéed. numerous recipes of such dishes, of them stuffings, described both in western , russian cookbooks of 19th century. among stuffed versions, on finds recipe fowl fillet à la maréchale stuffed truffles , herbs in art of french cuisine of 19th century (1847) marie-antoine carême, , similar filet de poulets à la maréchale herbs , forcemeat in la cuisine classique (1868) urbain dubois. elena molokhovets gift young housewives, successful russian cookbook of 19th century, has included since first edition in 1861 elaborate recipe hazel grouse à la maréchale stuffed madeira sauce, portobello mushrooms , truffles.

pozharsky cutlet

the main difference between old time côtelette de volaille , modern chicken cutlet kiev-style elaborate stuffings of former replaced butter. use of butter chicken cutlets has been known in russian cuisine @ least since invention of pozharsky cutlet in first half of 19th century. pozharsky cutlets breaded ground chicken patties butter added minced meat. results in juicy , tender consistency. dish appraised invention of 19th-century russian cuisine adopted french haute cuisine , subsequently international cuisine.

while roots of chicken kiev can traced french haute cuisine , russian cookery of 19th century, origin of particular recipe known today chicken kiev remains disputed.

individual attributions

the russian tea room cookbook notes chicken kiev … creation of great french chef carême @ court of alexander i. marie-antoine carême spent several months of year 1818 in st. petersburg, made profound impact on russian cuisine @ short time. reforms carried out followers introduced in particular various meat cuts russian cookery. recipe of russian côtelette de volaille not present in carême s major work mentioned above, fowl fillet à la maréchale have served starting point further development of such dishes.

some russian sources attribute creation of dish (or of precursor) nicolas appert, french confectioner , chef, best known inventor of airtight food preservation. in contrast, common biographic sources appert not mention dish, , origin of these claims unclear.

novo-mikhailovsky cutlet

russian food historian william pokhlyobkin claimed chicken kiev invented in 1912 novo-mikhailovskaya kotleta in а st. petersburg merchants club located near mikhailovsky palace, , renamed kotleta po-kiyevski in 1947 soviet restaurant. however, these claims collide primary sources. cookbook alexandrova-ignatieva (including editions before , after 1912) describes indeed novo-mikhailovsky cutlets , mentions invented in club near mikhailovsky palace. however, in provided recipe these cutlets made minced meat pozharsky cutlet, difference being meat pounded tenderizer until gets minced. allows 1 remove tendons meat , results in more tender consistency of ground meat after use of grinder. author remarks not breasts other parts of chicken can prepared way , added mixture of meat , butter.

the second claim of pokhlyobkin s version invalidated, references of chicken kiev appeared in published sources earlier, since 1910s.

modern chicken kiev

continental hotel in kiev, beginning of 20th century

oral tradition in kiev attributes invention of cutlet de volaille kiev-style (kotleta de-volyay po-kievski) restaurant of continental hotel in kiev in beginning of 20th century. luxury hotel built in 1897 in center of kiev, run until nazi german invasion of soviet union in 1941. building mined retreating red army , exploded when german army (wehrmacht) occupied kiev in september 1941. after war, building rebuilt , has since been used kiev conservatory. according memoirs of contemporaries, chicken kiev signature dish of hotel s restaurant.

recipe of kiev cutlets chicken or veal . cookery digest, 1915

an reference of kiev cutlets chicken or veal found in cookery digest (1915), collection of recipes published in moscow journal housewives in 1913–1914. these minced meat cutlets similar pozharsky cutlets, shaped croquette bar of cold butter placed in middle. modern chicken kiev, croquettes covered eggs , breadcrumbs , fried.

later, chicken cutlets kiev-style listed in apportionments dinners, separate dishes , other products of public catering (1928) served standard reference soviet catering establishments. book included other items chicken cutlets, such cutlet de volaille , cutlet à la maréchale . book demanded renaming of many traditional restaurant dishes replace (mostly french-style) bourgeoise names simple proletarian forms. in particular, cutlet kiev-style had renamed chicken cutlet stuffed butter . program not realised (at least not completely), , successor, directory of apportionments catering (1940), published soviet ministry of food industry, still included traditional names. in post-world war ii publications of directory , in other soviet cookery books, such cookery (1955), kiev-style name retained, terms de volaille , à la maréchale indeed dropped in favour of simple names such chicken cutlet stuffed milk sauce , chicken cutlet stuffed liver . result of policy, names de volaille , à la maréchale disappeared menus of soviet restaurants.

the old-style name cutlet de volaille kiev-style mentioned in post-world war ii soviet fiction books. in particular, in short story not written in cookbook (1947) yevgeny vorobyov, soviet soldier , former chef in moscow noble hotel explains comrade in arms, cutlets de volaille made 2 tastes. there cutlets de volaille kiev-style , cutlets de volaille jardiniere.

in poland, name kotlet de volaille used until today chicken kiev.

mentions of chicken kiev found in newspapers starting 1937. reports describe russian-style restaurant yar in chicago serving dish. restaurant existed until 1951 , run vladimir yaschenko, former colonel of imperial russian army. styled after famous eponymous moscow restaurant , frequented celebrities of time. after world war ii, newspapers mentioned chicken kiev served in new york restaurants. recipes chicken cutlet à la kiev published in new york times in 1946 , in gourmet magazine in 1948.

since end of 1940s or beginning of 1950s, chicken kiev became standard fare in soviet high class restaurants, in particular in intourist hotel chain serving foreign tourists. tourist booklets warned diners of danger presented clothing. @ same time popularity of dish grew in us. according darra goldstein chicken kiev became symbol of russian haute cuisine .