History Point Reyes

1 history

1.1 coast miwok
1.2 sir francis drake
1.3 wreck of san agustin
1.4 portolá s inland expedition , establishment of missions
1.5 rancho tomales y baulines
1.6 confused boundaries
1.7 shafter empire
1.8 towns of point reyes
1.9 20th century

history

south beach , point reyes peninsula

on 13 november, spanish explorer juan rodríguez cabrillo sighted , named cabo de pinos (point reyes), missed entrance san francisco bay, lapse mariners repeat next 2 centuries , more, due fog characterizes area. spanish explorer sebastián vizcaíno named land punto de los reyes ( kings point ) when ship, capitana anchored in drakes bay on day of 3 kings (epiphany, or end of 12 days of christmas) on january 6, 1603.

the coast miwok

point reyes first inhabitants, coast miwok, lived on land thousands of years. left evidence of on hundred encampments on peninsula, population estimated have been 3,000. seasonal hunters , gatherers, rather cultivators, nourished fish, clams, mussels, , crab, in addition deer, elk, bear, mud hen, geese, , small game hunted spears , bows. although did not cultivate land, used plentiful acorns staple part of diet removing tannic acid , making pulp stored in dry granaries.

although exact location of sir francis drake s 1579 anchorage @ point reyes still being debated, evidence has confirmed landed near coast miwok settlement. observations, presumably written chaplain, describe genial welcome drake , men received, complete ceremony , gifts. coast miwok continued peaceful existence until late in 18th century when spanish built mission san rafael , padres began journeying point reyes recruit them move mission. while attempting convert them, these padres disrupted traditional way of life in addition inadvertently introducing diseases brought untimely deaths, fewer births, , increasing infant mortality rates.

in 1992, coast miwok descendants established federated indians of graton rancheria and, 2001, had 400 members prove descent local tribes. today, enjoy rebirth of traditional customs , ceremonies, held in kule loklo, valley of bear , replica miwok village in point reyes national seashore.

sir francis drake

the distinctive shapes of point reyes, drakes bay, , tomales bay seen air

although explorers , spanish trading galleons journeying between philippines , acapulco passed point reyes, anchoring briefly, landing sir francis drake dominates discussion of era of point reyes history. exact location of landing, significant first european landing in northern california, has sparked countless hours of spirited debate spanning 4 centuries. experts believe, however, landed somewhere near area on june 17, 1579 , proclaimed nova albion (new england). likely, validated national historic landmark designation, precise place of drake s landing drake s cove @ point reyes national seashore.

the wreck of san agustin

point reyes shipwreck

rumors of drake s discovery of safe harbor on california coast intrigued spanish. trade between philippines , mexico booming, , seeking safe harbors along route. many believe drake s discovery of such harbor inspired spanish order sebastian rodriguez cermeno, portuguese captain trading spain, survey california coast on journey mexico philippines in 1595. commanding san agustin, manilla galleon laden luxury cargo of chinese silks, spices, , ming porcelain bound acapulco, cermeno endured both first of hundreds of documented shipwrecks @ point reyes, 1 of amazing journeys safety.

struggling decrepit, heavily laden ship , tired, rebellious crew wanted go home, cermeno explored california coast, anchoring near point reyes inlet called drakes estero. within few days, november storm beached ship listed , relentlessly pounded furious surf. broke apart, killing several men , dumping precious cargo, of collected, , used, local coast miwok tribesmen.

cermeno salvaged small, open launch, likened large canoe, , loaded 70 surviving crew members begin long journey home. after grueling two-month voyage, remembered remarkable feat of seamanship, cermeno , crew arrived safely in acapulco in january 1596. despite amazing journey, cermeno received no celebratory welcome, had not lost ship , cargo, had failed locate safe harbor ordered find.

portolá s inland expedition , establishment of missions

despite reports of lovely land populated friendly tribes, spain neglected california until second half of 18th century. time, trade had become important source of income, , becoming clear nation controlling california s harbors reap incredible profits. when england, france, , russia began covet california s coast, king of spain knew time fortify it. identify sites presidios , missions, overland expedition of 67 men , 100 pack mules left san diego in 1769. led gaspar de portolá, governor of baja california, began walking largest known harbor, monterey bay. portolá expected more of harbor found @ monterey, , decided must not have reached yet. pushing on north along coast, instead discovered san francisco bay. prior that, high point on coast south of pacifica, saw , recognized (from description of manila galleon pilot cabrera bueno) point reyes , farallon islands. expedition blocked going farther north toward point reyes golden gate , san francisco bay, since had no boats.

beginning portolá s expedition, spain began establishing presidios , missions. 1817, mission san rafael established , padres began journeying point reyes, intent on enticing coast miwok mission. although successful in convincing many settle @ mission begin life of backbreaking labor, clear coast miwoks not thriving. serious outbreaks of smallpox , pneumonia killed many. survived sickened wide variety of other illnesses, such colds , measles. birth rates dropped, , mortality rates increased @ alarming rate. since missions depended upon healthy workers prosperity, these illnesses foretold demise.

mexico gained independence spain , possession of california in 1821. deterioration of mission san rafael accelerated when secularization of missions mexico in 1834 ended era of mission domination had destroyed self-sufficient, centuries-old coast miwok way of life. mission land subdivided , large land grants used cattle ranching. being unsuitable cattle, point reyes , drake s bay became part of rancho punta de los reyes sobrante (sobrante means leftover ) in 1843. few years before cession of california united states, led decades of confusion , boundary battles.

rancho tomales y baulines

when spanish missions in california dismantled, virtually of point reyes given rafael garcia, corporal in mexican army, awarded 2 leagues (8911 acres) in march 1836. named rancho tomales y baulines, believed have included entire olema valley tomales bay bolinas lagoon, although borders never defined. garcia s failure survey , confirm boundaries, required mexican law, set stage confusion , lengthy court battles when rancho dissolved.

unlike many rancheros, garcia obeyed law living there. built wood , thatch home near today s national seashore bear valley headquarters , had comfortable home family headquarters extensive ranching operation consisting of approximately 3,000 cattle, 400 horses, , large herds of sheep , hogs. thriving quickly, rancho largely self-sufficient. grains , produce grown, , wild steer slaughtered each day provide staple diet of tortillas , beefsteak. additionally, wool processed , woven clothing, , hides crafted wide variety of leather products, including shoes , saddles. acquire luxury items not produce, garcia, coastal rancheros, traded hides, tallow, , produce smugglers. result, rancho adorned bronze candlesticks, fine candles, artificial flowers, framed engravings, , elegant furniture. enjoyed seemingly unlimited supplies of wine , champagne. although garcia got of luxury items smugglers, may have obtained of them source – point reyes many shipwrecks.

when mexico lost california united states, garcia continued prosper while. after american takeover, 1849 gold rush brought floods of prospectors. wild cattle had been valued hides , tallow, sell them feed hungry gold-seekers, netting as $35 each. unfortunately garcia, these gold-rich years ended quickly: in 1851, united states passed law requiring rancheros prove legal ownership of land grants. while garcias continued ranching, land began disappear until, after 15 years of litigation, multiple court appearances, , high legal fees, garcia had sold 3085 acres of grant @ bargain basement prices.

confused boundaries

although garcia believed owned virtually of point reyes, point reyes land grant awarded same year, 1836. given irishman james berry had become mexican citizen , colonel in army. land grant in olema valley, and, add boundary confusion, left area , hired garcia oversee it. mere 2 years later berry sold 9,000 acres of sea captain, joseph snook, act prohibited mexican law , grounds forfeiture of entire grant. although berry understandably wanted keep sale secret, snook wanted legal title. discovered way obtain legal title of land had illegally purchased formally denounce berry s ownership on grounds had never occupied it. successful , gained legal title land had illegally purchased, stocked 56 head of cattle, and, berry, hired garcia oversee it. 3 months after won legal title, illegally sold it.

and began confusing series of sales , transfers no 1 seemed able untangle. finally, in 1844, rancheros asked mexican government investigate titles , clarify ownership. little clarified, , not until united states took possession of california , required rancheros conduct surveys , make court appearances retain land confusing pattern of sales , trades untangled. rancheros able prove ownership. unfortunately, time, had run out of cash , forced sell pay survey , daunting legal fees. entrepreneurial americans delighted capitalize on opportunity. cash in hand, purchased these huge mexican land grants, paying less $2 per acre, beginning point reyes s next chapter dairying empire.

the shafter empire

settlement patterns @ point reyes forever changed when shafters acquired it. lords of point reyes decades, shafter brothers, oscar , james, , son-in-law charles webb howard, established large-scale, high-quality dairies became prime examples of cleanliness, organization, , success. 13 of 31 dairies established still thrive today.

oscar first arrive. vermont lawyer intent upon making fortune , returning home possible, left family journey booming san francisco. separation them became intolerable when 2 youngest children died while away. still not willing give promise of wealth, convinced wife come, bringing surviving daughter. thrived, , oscar fathered 4 more california-born daughters. oscar convinced younger brother, james, lawyer, join him. became known san francisco s foremost authorities on title litigation. using title expertise, began acquiring point reyes land. when oscar s oldest daughter married charles webb howard, lawyer, trio partnered transform windswept point reyes prosperous dairies.

determined supply booming san francisco butter, 1857, partners began fencing huge expanses of land (eventually resulting in 40 miles of fencing), building homes , barns, , stocking dairies finest pure-bred bulls , rams, costing on $1,400. 1868, had 3,500 cows on 17 dairies , producing on 700,000 pounds of butter year. dairies operated renters. when industrious of these renters tried buy dairy worked, failed. many left, establishing of california s major dairies.

despite boundless optimism promise of point reyes, did not rich it. although lived opulent lifestyles of wealthy of san francisco, plagued financial worries. children tried hold on dairies, trying unsuccessfully stop decline despite aging ranches, sickening herds, , unhappy tenants. finally, in 1937, era ended when last of shafter empire sold, ushering in new parade of owners.

the towns of point reyes

four towns comprise communities of point reyes: bolinas, olema, inverness, , point reyes station. centuries, bolinas remote lagoon made perfect secret harbor. although not documented, 1808 russian expedition bodega bay wiped out local otters , fur seals hunted in bolinas lagoon. during spanish , mexican rule, remote lagoon used american, british, , russian smugglers intent on avoiding tariffs , regulations. later, when gold rush of 1849 generated huge market lumber, bolinas became port nearby timber operations and, briefly, quarrying limestone. late 1960s, bolinas had become home large community of idealistic hippies, many of whom had left san francisco s haight-ashbury less populated paradise. in 1971, succeeded in scrapping master plan calling population of 28,000 imposing moratorium on new homes , defeating efforts widen access highway. instead, plan approved made agriculture, fishing, , small business town s economic base. bolinas gained renown unusual structures , recreational drug use, illustrating disregard building codes , drug laws. although days gone, bolinas remains unique corner of magnificent peninsula residents continue tear down road signs in hope tourists not find it.

point reyes lighthouse built in 1870

as shafter dairies began thrive, became evident point reyes needed centrally located town supplies, services, , entertainment. in 1857, hotel , saloon built , young town named olema , meaning coyote in coast miwok dialect. within 3 years, had emerged region s commercial center post office, grocery store, saloon, butcher, livery stable, , 2 hotels. 1867, wagon road san rafael built , stage coach arrived twice week. gained reputation great place drink. combat reputation, druids hall completed in 1885. while olema chapter of united ancient order of druids adhered principles of mutual support, intellectual growth, , social consciousness, served temperance society. virtually deserted when railroad stopped @ point reyes station instead of olema, languished until 1960s when millions of visitors began coming adjacent point reyes national seashore.

inverness remains small community of charming cottages, lovely gardens, , uncontested streets amid stunning setting. exudes aura of village of yesteryear, populated modern residents aware of fortune live there.

the shafters lobbied hard railroad serve point reyes. when built, bypassed olema, terminating, instead, 2 miles away. when first train arrived in 1875, point reyes station cow pasture. passengers not happy dropped there no services accommodate them, , clear town must built. 1880, had hotel, saloon, blacksmith shop, livery stable, butcher shop, , school. post office completed in 1882, , first store opened in 1883. when railroad era ended, growth slow. not until after world war ii medical center , impressive shopping center, including drugstore, dentist, coffee shop, , library, had been completed. train station became local post office, while former engine house converted community center. in 1970s, hippies established cottage industries in abandoned houses , shops. @ same time, coast guard bought 30 acres of land formerly used cattle pens, , built military housing. unlikely comrades, locals watched in amusement new military , peace-loving residents learned co-exist. continuing region s supply , service center, popular destination rich charming shops, fine restaurants, extraordinary butter-filled pastures @ bovine bakery, , annual music festival

20th century

as developers , loggers submitted plans change point reyes forever, 1956 national park service (nps) study of possible seashore parks recommended acquisition of peninsula. 1958, report published recommending immediate nps acquisition of 35,000 acres. controversy raged, environmentalists applauding proposal , ranchers owned , worked land fervently opposing it. finally, compromise crafted allowed ranchers lease land , continue dairying while coexisting tourists , park activities. on september 13, 1962, president john f. kennedy signed bill authorizing acquisition of 53,000 acres , allocating $13 million. 18,000 acres purchased nps leased ranchers.

in cooperation nps, volunteers have restored , maintain historic coastal radiotelegraph marine station, ksm (ex-kph), @ point reyes. remains 1 of few commercial morse code stations operating in world, , 1 in u.s.

during cold war, submarines repaired @ mare island naval shipyard tested in shallow waters off point reyes following shipyard repairs. navy safety personnel used small monitoring , communications hut on peninsula monitoring submarines during these sea trials.

in april , may 1979, part of john carpenter s fog shot @ point reyes lighthouse , small town of inverness.

as of 2015, drakes bay oyster company (dboc) has ceased operations, , infrastructure has been removed site. closure comes result of lease ending.