continental hotel in kiev, beginning of 20th century
oral tradition in kiev attributes invention of cutlet de volaille kiev-style (kotleta de-volyay po-kievski) restaurant of continental hotel in kiev in beginning of 20th century. luxury hotel built in 1897 in center of kiev, run until nazi german invasion of soviet union in 1941. building mined retreating red army , exploded when german army (wehrmacht) occupied kiev in september 1941. after war, building rebuilt , has since been used kiev conservatory. according memoirs of contemporaries, chicken kiev signature dish of hotel s restaurant.
recipe of kiev cutlets chicken or veal . cookery digest, 1915
an reference of kiev cutlets chicken or veal found in cookery digest (1915), collection of recipes published in moscow journal housewives in 1913–1914. these minced meat cutlets similar pozharsky cutlets, shaped croquette bar of cold butter placed in middle. modern chicken kiev, croquettes covered eggs , breadcrumbs , fried.
later, chicken cutlets kiev-style listed in apportionments dinners, separate dishes , other products of public catering (1928) served standard reference soviet catering establishments. book included other items chicken cutlets, such cutlet de volaille , cutlet à la maréchale . book demanded renaming of many traditional restaurant dishes replace (mostly french-style) bourgeoise names simple proletarian forms. in particular, cutlet kiev-style had renamed chicken cutlet stuffed butter . program not realised (at least not completely), , successor, directory of apportionments catering (1940), published soviet ministry of food industry, still included traditional names. in post-world war ii publications of directory , in other soviet cookery books, such cookery (1955), kiev-style name retained, terms de volaille , à la maréchale indeed dropped in favour of simple names such chicken cutlet stuffed milk sauce , chicken cutlet stuffed liver . result of policy, names de volaille , à la maréchale disappeared menus of soviet restaurants.
the old-style name cutlet de volaille kiev-style mentioned in post-world war ii soviet fiction books. in particular, in short story not written in cookbook (1947) yevgeny vorobyov, soviet soldier , former chef in moscow noble hotel explains comrade in arms, cutlets de volaille made 2 tastes. there cutlets de volaille kiev-style , cutlets de volaille jardiniere.
in poland, name kotlet de volaille used until today chicken kiev.
mentions of chicken kiev found in newspapers starting 1937. reports describe russian-style restaurant yar in chicago serving dish. restaurant existed until 1951 , run vladimir yaschenko, former colonel of imperial russian army. styled after famous eponymous moscow restaurant , frequented celebrities of time. after world war ii, newspapers mentioned chicken kiev served in new york restaurants. recipes chicken cutlet à la kiev published in new york times in 1946 , in gourmet magazine in 1948.
since end of 1940s or beginning of 1950s, chicken kiev became standard fare in soviet high class restaurants, in particular in intourist hotel chain serving foreign tourists. tourist booklets warned diners of danger presented clothing. @ same time popularity of dish grew in us. according darra goldstein chicken kiev became symbol of russian haute cuisine .
Comments
Post a Comment