1 cambodian clothing styles period
1.1 funan era (68—550)
1.2 chenla (550—802)
1.3 angkor era (802—1432)
1.4 charktomok period (1437—1525)
1.5 longvek era—kingdom of cambodia (1525–1953)
1.6 khmer rouge period (1975–1979)
1.6.1 black pajamas
cambodian clothing styles period
the khmer sampot many variations regarded national dress of cambodia. variations in clothes sharply indicated position in firm social hierarchy, regional , period changes. new fashions passed down generations, though clothing styles disappeared restored in later period.
funan era (68—550)
(khmer: សម័យនគរភ្នំ (ហ្វូណន))
clothing styles in first cambodian period overwhelmingly influenced india, @ least until khmer king @ request of chinese envoys ordered subjects wear sampot. despite similarities, men , women wore distinct clothing styles.
men: males in region wore indian clothing. people in region wore sampot chang kben more indian looking today. king, family , nobles had own style of sarabat textile imported china. bas-relief shows wealthy people wearing cloth dhoti, winding around upper body , tying waist thin piece of cloth.
noblemen , royalty wore sampot chang kben in everyday life chest exposed. varieties of yantra tattooing in ancient khmer script inscribed on bodies spiritual protection. spread of hinduism across country, king wore crown different colored corners show royalty.
women wore brocaded sarongs , sampots in different colours, held @ waist gold belt. useful sampot have been sampot sarabap, made expensive light silk of country. left upper body naked, women have added sarong kor (see below) collar display jewellery, including big triangular earrings of wood or gold, or earrings shaped bracelets.
short, straight hairstyles worn non-royal courtiers; chignon or topknot typically reserved royalty.
unlike rich, poor wore simple straw skirt around waist or 1 made of animal skin or cotton. had no jewellery wore hairstyles similar of rich.
chenla (550—802)
(khmer: សម័យចេនឡា)
clothing styles in period bore resemblances in funan; however, according bas-belief @ vat phou, surviving ruin of chenla, national costume differed of funan excepting headdress worn @ time king.
men tie hair topknot , crown funan-style headdress. men continued wear sampot, in many variations. men wore kind of collar displayed naked chest. sword or dagger @ chest indicated bravery, developed musculature indicated manly strength.
women tied hair topknot, adorned head flower. crown head floral circlet made of gold. wore sampot or floral textile sarong pidan cloth, matched golden belt , held new style of khmer sarong kor below neck. breasts , stomach remained naked (see next section). striking development of period ladies-in-waiting of palace wearing shawl-like sbai on left shoulder cover breast , stomach in buddhist manner. royal women wore sava, loosely decorated band of beads worn crosswise.
angkor era (802—1432)
(khmer: សម័យអង្គរ)
in khmer empire or angkor period, khmer styles moved firmly away indian styles of earlier periods. @ same time khmer culture spread influence far beyond boundaries of empire. in zhou daguan s description of khmer people find following:
among khmer (excluding vast numbers of hill-tribe slaves), both men , women wore hair tied in knot. naked waist cloth around hips. in public wore larger cloth on smaller one. barefoot.
from king down, social distinction marked quality , decoration of cloth. king permitted wear cloth patterned flowers. head wreathed flowers when not wearing buddha-like gold crown. on fingers , toes wore bracelets encrusted gold , pearls. palms of hands , soles of feet dyed crimson. carried gold sword of office in public.
parasols, extensions of clothing, severely graded in number , gilding king s 8 or more parasols down buddhist monk s one.
the king s subjects clothes various reductions of royal ensemble. court officials , members of royal family permitted cloth showing design in scattered flowers; low officials limited 2 flowers; male commoners had none, though common women permitted crimson feet , hands , wear cloth showing 2 flowers.
contemporary inscriptions , bas-reliefs of temples @ angkor, angkor wat , bayon, show cloths various forms , widths of sampot, worn skirts women hitched trousers or shorts men military action or labour.
zhou daguan reported common women had no hair ornaments, though wore golden rings or bracelets , metal belt. beautiful girls sent court serve king or family; concubines , other court servants, wore crimson markings on crown of head. temple evidence shows women of era, rich , poor, used golden buckle cover upper body. topknot allowed long ponytail, worn on shoulder.
temple bas-reliefs show how celestial apsaras conceived. appear in way royalty, court dancer added special ornaments khmer elements. sarong kor round decorative collar, red coloured, highly visible, worn below neck , embellished detailed gold-colored copper ornaments , beaded designs. dancer added loosely decorated band of beads worn crosswise called sava. sampot more highly decorated usual, 2 knots @ waist. right knot long left knot design more charming , fashionable. waist has highly ornate belt decorated warped, spear-like tips draped on red cloth. most-used jewellery @ ankle, dangling ears or round wrists. striking of apsara s crown: tricorn headdress of finely beaten silver or gold 2 or 3 garlands of emeralds , gold. these worn royal princesses, sculptured female divinities, female dancers , female musicians. though costume not worn today, has become part of high culture of cambodia in apsara dance.
angkor court ladies dress little different court dancers . however, bas-reliefs show costumes of queens jayarajadevi , indradevi have unique sava in glittering gold floral print instead of apsara beading. queen indradevi s crown has ten points , large diamond in center holding headdress in place.
charktomok period (1437—1525)
(khmer: សម័យចតុមុខ)
a 21st-century khmer woman dancing in sampot chang kben.
after sack of angkor in 1400 thai, cambodian survivors lost awareness of old way of living, developed new modes influenced uniquely khmer forms of thinking, more affinity buddhism former hindu influences.
royalty: king wore long sleeved shirt sewn @ top rich embroidery , collar round decorations, little sharp tips. there sort of epaulette sewn onto shirt arching upwards indra s bow, chinese style tang dynasty. criss-crossing front kse-sangvar, chains of rank forming x cross on 1 another, on top of them diamond shaped pendant. below knee-length, leg-hugging trousers decorated @ hem, covered chang kben descending thigh , belt @ waist. other accessories include rectangular loin-cloth @ front , 2 others on side fish tails. these pieces date angkor era. king wears crown similar 1 angkor period, sharper points , higher.
men went shirtless until sufficiently wealthy find suitable top. ordinary khmer males attire wrap chang kben in several colours, lifted thigh , hugging lower body free physical work. noblemen wore round collared shirt long pleat @ front , 4 pockets @ side. males wore hair long.
women in era wore highly decorated garments. young women wrapped in 2 metres of fabric in chang pok style, revealing small part of stomach. fabric decorated several colours , pieces of silver, made of heavy or soft cotton depend on wearer s wealth. wealthy women wore chang pok fabric shawl sewn in place sampot. wore hair in bun or chignon attached flowers , draped on shoulder. older women wore quieter colours favourite sampot samloy , jewellery of bracelets, necklaces , earrings, made silver, gold , other metal. older women wore hair in chignon style only.
common women wore same style of clothes upper class in black, wearing sarongs no decoration or shawl except serviceable krama.
longvek era—kingdom of cambodia (1525–1953)
the history of khmer clothing during longvek, srei santor, oudong , french protectorate eras is, time being, scholarly terra incognita. shifts in fashion, royal fashion, follow shifts in international power thai vietnamese french influence. upper garments , shoes approximate more , more closely european court dress, while lower garments vacillate between breeches, trousers , sampot châng kben. till day khmer clothing still similar thai clothing.
khmer rouge period (1975–1979)
black pajamas
the khmer rouge regime of 1970s well-noted imposing black unisex pajamas. typical peasant outfit consisted of collarless black shirt, baggy trousers, , checkered krama knotted loosely neck. brightly colored clothing strictly prohibited; colors limited plain black, dark blue, or maroon. women strictly forbidden wear western-style trousers or jeans @ time, although after fall of khmer rouge these became increasingly popular, particularly among young women.
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